Greetings from the Dubai airport, where a long layover can also be a destination
Far-Flung Postcards is a weekly series in which NPR’s international team shares moments from their lives and work around the world.
While returning to the U.S. a dozen years ago from a reporting assignment in Kabul, I had a long layover at the Dubai International Airport and got to know it well — its ebb and flow from quiet to clamor and back, as passengers from all over the planet arrived and left.
With hours to fill between flights, I roamed for miles around this colossal airport, the busiest international hub in the world. I marveled at the gold shops, wandered past the McDonald’s and Starbucks, browsed the camel’s milk chocolate and Cuban cigars, rested in the Zen Garden. I heard Arabic, Hindi, English, Chinese and French. I spritzed myself with perfume at the duty-free shops and decided to get a pedicure at 2 a.m. The man sitting next to me getting his feet done at that hour was a U.S. Marine. The mix of familiarity and disorientation at the airport made me feel I might be anywhere, everywhere — and nowhere at all.
William Gibson observed in his novel Pattern Recognition that long-haul flights get us to our destinations so fast that it can take awhile for our souls to catch up with our bodies: “Souls can’t move that quickly, and are left behind, and must be awaited, upon arrival, like lost luggage,” he wrote.
I thought of this when I was back in transit at DXB one evening earlier this month, and snapped this photo during a quiet moment. With several hours stretching ahead of me before my next flight, I realized that I enjoy long layovers at the Dubai airport because they give me space — in good company with tens of thousands of others heading from one part of the world to another — to take stock of where I’ve been and where I’m going. It was, for me, a perfect limbo.
See more photos from around the world:
- Greetings from Paris, where you can swim in the Seine for the first time in a century
- Greetings from Gujarat, India, where a banyan tree is a place for rest, prayers and play
- Greetings from Khartoum, Sudan, where those with the least offer their guests the most
- Greetings from Moscow, Russia, where Lenin’s tomb attracts a new surge of visitors
- Greetings from New Delhi, India, where performing monkeys spark delight — and ambivalence
- Greetings from Damascus, Syria, where a crowded bar welcomed post-Assad revelers
- Greetings from Alishan, Taiwan, whose red cypress forests offer timeless beauty
- Greetings from Odesa, Ukraine, where a Black Sea beach offers respite from war
- Greetings from Shenyang, China, where workers sort AI data in ‘Severance’-like ways
- Greetings from Palmyra, Syria, with its once-grand hotel named for a warrior queen
- Greetings from Mexico City, where these dogs ride a bus to and from school
- Greetings from the Galápagos Islands, where the blue-footed booby shows its colors
- Greetings from Afrin, Syria, where Kurds danced their hearts out to celebrate spring
- Greetings from Dharamshala, India, where these Tibetan kids were having the best time
The costs of Israel’s longest war, for Israelis
Israelis are paying heavy costs for the longest war in their history: a mental health crisis, trauma, unprecedented division during wartime, animosity abroad and apathy for Palestinian suffering.
These numbers show how 2 years of war have devastated Palestinian lives in Gaza
It's been two years since Hamas-led militants attacked Israel, killing some 1,200 people and taking 251 hostages. In response, Israeli leaders promised a punishing offensive. Here are some numbers showing the war's toll.
White House floats no back pay for some furloughed federal workers despite 2019 law
A new draft White House memo suggests a 2019 law signed by President Trump that guarantees federal employees get paid after a shutdown ends would not apply to furloughed workers.
The government shutdown is snarling air travel. Officials say it could get worse
A dozen facilities saw air traffic control shortages on Monday, delaying flights at several airports. Transportation Secretary Sean Duffy blamed "a slight tick-up in sick calls" due to the shutdown.
Here are the finalists for the 2025 National Book Awards
This year's short list features novelists Rabih Alameddine and Megha Majumdar as well as five first-time nominees for nonfiction, including journalists Omar El Akkad and Julia Ioffe.
New books this week: Thomas Pynchon’s first novel in 12 years, and much more
In addition to Pynchon's Shadow Ticket, this week's releases include a new memoir from Dopesick author Beth Macy, and a coming-of-age story from former U.S. poet laureate Joy Harjo.