Chinese manufacturers on TikTok claim they make the world’s luxury goods. Is that true?
This week, in the wake of widespread confusion about Trump’s tariffs on China, a certain kind of video started going viral on TikTok, and then on other corners of the internet.
What is it? Why, it’s the Chinese luxury goods conspiracy, Charlie Brown! If you don’t already know what we’re talking about, the videos in question feature a pretty standard format:
- A supposed Chinese manufacturer or factory owner informs the viewer that they are going to be “spilling the tea.”
- The alleged secret? That European luxury manufacturers have been using their factories to produce their brand name wares, then charging an enormous markup that is passed on to the consumer.
The real cost of #Birkin bag and what you are really paying for.
pic.twitter.com/WQTHFL2jKD
— Humanbydesign (@Humanbydesign3) April 13, 2025
What’s the big deal? These videos have gone viral (though the most popular ones have been continually deleted and reuploaded on TikTok), and comments are flooded with users that are outraged by this shocking “reveal” and ready to spend their cash on a product that they think is more fairly priced.
- China’s manufacturers making knockoff products is nothing new – but Trump’s tariff wars are striking fear and confusion among consumers who are bracing for higher costs. Users have compiled lists and express disbelief over the fact that they could’ve been getting a better deal this entire time.
- It’s part of a desire to feel ‘in’ on a secret – that’s what fashion writer and X savant (formerly known as Twitter) Derek Guy wrote on his massively popular account. He spoke with NPR, and shared that while the knockoff bag you’re ordering could be great quality, it definitely won’t be an Hermès. He watched that first manufacturer TikTok embedded above, and immediately, a few things stuck out:
- “The price [of the bag] was wrong. The price of the components are wrong. And also the thing that he named that was togo leather in the video was not actually the leather. So that also sent off alarms…. He wouldn’t discuss the stitching or the work that goes into it. “
The thing about the Chinese fashion manufacturing TikTok discourse is that people haven’t seen what it takes to build a reputable business. Look at what independent craftspeople go through: years of training, selling to discerning buyers, building a reputation, and expansion.
pic.twitter.com/jgL2GtIVBm
— derek guy (@dieworkwear) April 15, 2025
What are people saying? “The idea of finding what you think is a secret deal online is incredibly enticing,” Guy shared.
And it’s not like many of these brands don’t outsource mass production to other countries. But when it comes to Hermès specifically, that logic doesn’t fly.
- “They have a certain flagship line, which are their leather goods, and within that, there are tiers of leather goods. Certainly the Birkin and Kelly bag is the top of the top for them. That’s what they hang their reputation on… I know they make them in France, they make them in-house. They’re not outsourced to China. They’re also made in a specific way that I think makes them distinct from other luxury goods.”
Part of the confusion comes from the fact that when it comes to name brand dupes, Chinese craftsmanship has gotten better, and the originals have become easier to replicate.
- “Over the last 50 or 75 years, a lot of high end clothing has devolved. When you look at even the mid-century, a mid-tier womenswear item would include pleats and darts and complicated construction. And then over time, that clothing has become simpler and simpler, where Balenciaga sells graphic printed T-shirts. So as the item becomes simpler, then it’s easier to reproduce,” he explained.
- “If you fold a piece of paper once over, yeah, that’s pretty easy to duplicate. But if someone folds it into this really complicated origami, like Hermès does, then it will be harder for someone to duplicate that.”
So what now? Guy wants to make two separate things clear to curious consumers.
One: Casting these doubts has nothing to do with the skill level of the workers. “There are Asian artisans that make handsome leather goods that I think are up there with Hermès. They’re not making knockoff Birkins or Kelly bags. They have their own designs,” he said.
- “[China does] make a lot of fine clothes. And also the counterfeiters also make clothes or accessories and other goods that are often just as good or hard to spot as the originals.”
And two: Be skeptical!
- “I just recently saw the same person behind these videos has also done the same videos for cars, [saying] things like, ‘We can manufacture Western cars for cheaper.’ What are the chances that the guy who specializes in Hermès bags also specializes in any cars and all of these other categories of goods?” said Guy.
As for the luxury brand itself? NPR reached out to Hermès for comment but did not receive a reply by the time this article was published.
Transcript:
AILSA CHANG, HOST:
OK, it seems like every week, there is a new main character – right? – someone or something that the internet is obsessed with. And I try to keep up with all of it, but I don’t inhale social media the way that some of our resident young people do, like our producer Mia Venkat, who is always there for anything that I missed. And she is here with something new. Mia, hello.
MIA VENKAT, BYLINE: Hi, Ailsa.
CHANG: All right, so tell me, who or what is everyone talking about this week?
VENKAT: All right, Ailsa. The main character of this week isn’t a person, but it’s a concept. It’s the Chinese luxury goods conspiracy.
(LAUGHTER)
CHANG: Wait. What (laughter)?
VENKAT: OK, yeah. So this one does require some explanation, obviously. But it starts with these superviral videos that have been flooding TikTok all week from Chinese manufacturers.
CHANG: Yeah (laughter). I saw this one guy who basically claimed that he makes Hermes bags in his factory, like, basically the same bag you would buy from Hermes.
VENKAT: Yep. That’s right. Exactly.
CHANG: Let me guess. It’s totally genuine.
VENKAT: Yeah, we’re going to get to that. But…
CHANG: (Laughter).
VENKAT: So this video, the one that you’re talking about, is from a TikTok user named Sen Bags. But that name has changed a bunch because some of his accounts have been suspended and videos have been taken down. But I saw one video with over 10 million views before it got taken down. By the way, I did reach out to Hermes and TikTok. Hermes has not responded, and TikTok has declined to comment. But here’s a clip on that video.
(SOUNDBITE OF ARCHIVED RECORDING)
UNIDENTIFIED TIKTOKKER: By the way, Hermes will charge you 38,000 USD for one bag. That’s because more than 90% of the price is paid for its logo. But if you do not care about logo, you just want the same quality, same material, you can just buy from us.
CHANG: Wait, people are paying $38,000 for one Hermes bag? What?
VENKAT: That’s the thing. That price isn’t right. And so he’s claiming that his bags are exact duplicates of a bag that, you know, luxury brand Hermes offers for a fraction of the cost. And that’s not true. I’ll explain the rest later. But that’s just one video. There have been tons of viral videos with similar claims that American consumers have been duped by brands and not all luxury, either. But American consumers have really responded to this.
CHANG: Wait, but haven’t counterfeit goods always been a thing everywhere on the internet, like, from lots of different countries? Why are we hearing these videos going viral now?
VENKAT: Yeah, I think there’s a few things at play. First, there’s a lot of confusion about tariffs in the U.S. right now, and it seems like these videos are kind of targeted at that, and they’re capitalizing on that uncertainty. But also people love feeling like they’re in on a deal. If a shirt’s on sale, my mom is going to buy it in every color. That is the only certainty I have in this life.
CHANG: (Laughter).
VENKAT: And then the last thing is, people love a conspiracy. They want to feel like they’re in on a big secret.
CHANG: Oh, totally. Who doesn’t want to be in on a big secret? But wait, you told us that what that first guy claimed was not true. How do you know?
VENKAT: That’s right. So I wasn’t sure at first. It’s a compelling video. You know, it got me. So that’s why I called up Derek Guy. He’s been a fashion writer for 15 years, and he posted a couple of threads, debunking these claims. He says that the bags the man was selling might be great quality, but they’re definitely not Hermes. That video raised some red flags for a few different reasons.
DEREK GUY: He wouldn’t discuss the stitching or the work that goes into it. That seems strange. He wouldn’t emphasize the craftsmanship. The price was wrong. The price of the components were wrong. And also the thing that he named was – that was togo leather in the video was not actually togo leather.
VENKAT: He told me that it has gotten really hard to detect fakes now because they’ve just gotten better. A lot of goods have gotten simpler.
GUY: If someone gets a Balenciaga T-shirt, I don’t know if it came from the original factory, and even if it didn’t, it’s not that hard to duplicate because it’s just a very simple item. If you fold a piece of paper once over, yeah, like, that’s pretty easy to duplicate. But if someone folds it into this, like, really complicated origami, like Hermes does, then it will be harder for someone to duplicate that.
CHANG: OK, so, yeah, there may be lots of high-quality knockoffs out there for all kinds of stuff but not for complicated Hermes bags.
VENKAT: That’s right. Derek Guy says everyone everywhere is always trying to sell you stuff. So it’s on us as consumers to have a critical eye.
GUY: There are many, many companies, including in China, that make quality goods that may advertise on social media platforms, but not everybody is telling the truth. Evaluate whether this is something that is actually worth purchasing.
VENKAT: And that’s ’cause – as you know, Ailsa, the idea of a good deal can be very, very tempting (laughter).
CHANG: But sometimes too good to be true, right?
VENKAT: Yep.
CHANG: NPR’s Mia Venkat with this week’s main character – you are so awesome, Mia. Thank you so much.
VENKAT: You’re welcome, Ailsa.
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